Images from Cliff Torrijos (@eatsleepclimbthings)

Hanging out and having fun!

When did you start Rock Climbing? How did you get your start?

I first started climbing about 11 years ago, but I took a three-year break and just got back into it at the beginning of last year. I was always interested in the sport and decided to finally take an intro class at a gym while living in the DC area. A few months later I moved to Beijing, China and took vacations all around Asia where climbing was just as important as sightseeing.

Cliff climbing in Tonsai.

How long have you been climbing at Sender One? What do you like most about the gym?

I moved back to California early last year – only a few weeks before Sender One LAX opened to the public. So it’s been almost a year and a half now! The length of the climbs is the biggest draw for me. I almost exclusively sport climb so it's the best in the area for my training.

What advice do you have for someone who is just starting to climb and would like to improve?

My best advice is to simply climb as much as possible. In the early stages of becoming a climber, learning and refining technique is the best way to improve. Try to get in a lot of "mileage" by climbing at least three times per week. Get outside and experience different types of rock. Work on your flexibility. Don't worry about getting "stronger" in the early stages – strength will increase over time as your muscles and tendons adapt to the unique stresses of climbing. Just focus on having fun and learning the balance and movement!

Cliff climbing the torch at Sender One LAX.

What are some of your favorite climbing destinations? What makes them special?

Despite picking up climbing somewhat late in life, I've been extremely lucky to have been able to travel and climb to many exotic locations, including Thailand, Spain, China and Mexico. I really got into climbing while living in China, so I traveled all throughout Southeast Asia to climb. In my first three years as a climber, I was able to experience climbing in China, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Thailand, Vietnam, Laos and Malaysia.

One of my favorite climbing destinations is Tonsai in Thailand. I've spent more than five months there in my life, including 60 days just in 2017! The people, the food, the beaches, and the climbing are all incredible. I just love the steep and 3-dimensional limestone there. It's something that simply doesn't exist here in the U.S. The vibe there is extremely laid back so it's easy to meet people. There are climbs right on the beach where people end up congregating in the evening so there's always plenty of opportunities to meet climbing partners.

Another favorite climbing destination is Kalymnos. I visited the Greek island in April for the first time and it was amazing. The climbing is similar to Tonsai: steep and 3-dimensional but without the heat and humidity. I'm definitely trying to go back there ASAP.

Cliff climbing in Kalymnos.

Please share some of your climbing goals for 2018. What are your strategies for accomplishing them?

My high-level climbing goals for 2018 are to redpoint one 13b and two 5.13a's. A few months ago, I ticked one 13a at Echo Cliffs and was feeling good about reaching the goal. But then I sustained a few injuries that have kept me from working my other projects. I'm trying to do some light climbing while I recover and then my plan will be to focus on hangboarding. Finger strength is one of my weaknesses so I need to address that aspect of my climbing in order to progress.

Describe your training plan. Do you have any favorite workouts (both climbing and non-climbing)? Any food/snacks that you always have with you at the crag or in the gym? What about any pre-climbing rituals?

I recently transitioned from climbing two days on/one day off to climbing two days a week in the gym, 1-2 days outside, and three days of core/cardio.

I switch up my workouts often but the ever-present theme for me is to try hard. That means climbing things that challenge me. If I'm not projecting, I'm looking for climbs that push me to try hard – where there's a chance I might come off toward the top.

I eat a pretty standard diet when I'm climbing inside, but outside I tend to stick to Clif Bloks, granola bars, cashews, and Gatorade. I don't like eating anything heavy during the middle of the day but I realize I need to keep feeding my body to perform at my peak.

Pre-climb, I work on visualization techniques and those have been extremely helpful. I also try to have a routine right before I pull onto the rock where I allow my mind and body to be silent for a moment before I tell myself some encouraging words and smile. I've found this puts me into a relaxed state of mind, which I found is key when climbing at my limit.

Cliff climbing in Red Rock.

Who are some of your climbing role models? Where do you look for inspiration?

I don't really have climbing role models but I'm definitely inspired by Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell. Like me, they're both fathers who still get out and climb as much as they can. They have a bit more freedom to go climb than I do, but it's so inspiring to see other "old guys" still getting after it and climbing hard.

Have you had any obstacles during your climbing career?

I hate to call him an "obstacle" but my 5-year old son Bishop definitely presents unique challenges to reaching my climbing goals. Since I have primary custody of him, it means he accompanies me on almost all my climbing trips. It also means that I have to modify my training schedule so it meshes with his. Approaches can take twice as long and just bringing him out to the crag means that I arrive more fatigued than normal. But overall, he's a really laid back kid and doesn't require too much attention. I'm also extremely lucky to have found partners who are cool with having him tag along. I just try to keep everything in perspective and view it as just another challenge I need to overcome.

Bishop getting tied in to climb.

Yes, Bishop! Please tell me a little about Bishop and his climbing goals/achievements.

It's just Bishop and me for the vast majority of the year so it's out of necessity that he comes with me everywhere. He comes to the gym with me 2-3 evenings per week and he comes outside with me 1-2 days on the weekend. I don't force him to climb but kids love to mimic their parents so he does love to climb. Like me, he loves to challenge himself. He's just turned 5 last month and currently climbs V0, 5.9 inside, gets up 5.8 outside, and finishes the Sender City speed wall in 49 seconds.

You recently had a climbing birthday challenge at Red Rocks. Please tell me about the challenge, how you got the idea, some of the climbs on your tick-list, and other highlights.

I turned the big 4-0 so I wanted to do something fun and challenging with my friends. I decided to attempt doing 40 Mountain Project stars of classic climbs in a day. All of the routes had to be 5.11a or harder and they needed to be climbed free and on lead. I picked 12 climbs in Red Rocks including two 5.12a's (Steep Thrills and Gimme Back My Bullets) and two 5.11d's (Sunny & Steep and Sweet Pain). In the waning light, with my muscles beginning to cramp, I managed to successfully complete the challenge without taking a single fall. It was one of the most rewarding things I've done in my climbing "career.”

Cliff climbing in Maple Canyon, UT.

When you're not climbing, what can you be found doing? Any other hobbies or activities?

Since I got back into it last year, climbing has been kind of obsession. Between working, climbing, and Bishop, I really don't have much free time. However, I do try to fit in some time for a few of my other lifelong passions including volleyball (beach and indoor), snowboarding, and upgrading/modifying my Audi.

Is there anything else you'd like to share? Any big picture ideas that haven't been covered in this interview?

I think rock climbing is an amazing sport. After the physical and mental challenge that climbing presents, one of the other things I love are all the places climbing can take you. So if you're primarily a gym climber, go outside and check out all your local crags. If you're already an outside climber, go travel! Whether it be domestically or internationally, go visit the climbing meccas for your respective style. If possible, take a friend or three and make some memories!

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With all of the conflicts and stress in today’s world, there is no better time to find an avenue or process to combat these negative energies. Millions of people across the world have turned to yoga to do just that. While some consider yoga as just another exercise routine, those who teach and practice it faithfully know that it is much more.

Derived from the Sankrit word "yuj" which means "to unite or integrate," yoga is a 5,000+ year old Indian body of knowledge. Yoga is recognized as a form of mind-body medicine that integrates an individual's physical, mental, and spiritual components to improve aspects of health, particularly stress related illnesses. It’s all about creating a mind-body-breath harmony through various breathing exercises, yoga poses and meditation. While there are many types of yoga, one of the most popular styles is Hatha yoga, which focuses on pranayamas (breath-controlled exercises), followed by a series of asanas (yoga postures), which end with savasana (a resting period).

Besides the physical benefits of taking yoga classes, a multitude of studies have been conducted throughout the years showing the positive effects yoga can have on many other challenges of today’s world.

Benefit #1: Yoga can help manage stress and depression

Numerous studies establish the potential positive effects of yoga on depression, stress, and anxiety. While there are many therapeutic avenues available for stress and depression, consistent yoga practice has been shown to improve depression as well. Yoga can lead to significant increases in serotonin levels, paired with decreases in the levels of monoamine oxidase, an enzyme that breaks down neurotransmitters and cortisol and is used in the treatment of depression. A 2010 study showed that women who practiced yoga recovered from stress more quickly than women without a regular practice. Studies show yoga offers tremendous benefits in the area of stress relief, which helps in all other areas of the body. The chemicals and hormones that are associated with a physical and mental sense of well-being and happiness, including antioxidants, were increased in all subjects in studies. Stress is often called the “silent killer” as it can lead to high blood pressure, heart disease, and a lowered immune system. Yoga is an effective stress killer.

Benefit #2: Yoga can help reduce disease

Becoming more flexible is one of the most obvious benefits of yoga. Sure yoga poses are great to strengthen and relax the body, but there's a lot more to yoga than that. Researchers studied a small group of sedentary individuals who had not practiced yoga before. After eight weeks of practicing yoga at least twice a week for a total of 180 minutes, participants had greater muscle strength and endurance, flexibility and cardio-respiratory fitness. Yoga is proven to reduce disease, illness, and pain. Here are some examples of yoga's impact on reducing common diseases:

Heart Disease

Yoga now might be considered a good alternative to common cardiovascular exercise, like walking and biking. It is now being included in many cardiac rehabilitation programs due to its cardiovascular and stress-relieving benefits. Recent research checked out 42 studies that investigated yoga in relation to a cardio-vagal response. One conclusion of this study was that those who practice yoga regularly had lower heart rates, respiratory rates, and lower concentrations of cortisol. All groups in these studies, whether they had hypertension or not, had improvements in their adrenal gland secretion which, in turn, lead to a drop in blood pressure. There have been several studies that found yoga to have a positive effect on cardiovascular risk factors, helping to lower blood pressure in people who have hypertension. It's likely that yoga restores the mechanism that regulates blood pressure changes, called baroreceptor sensitivity. Yoga may also help keep both your heart rate and your blood pressure lower.

Blood Oxygen

The poses that are the staple of yoga exercise improve your body’s cell function by allowing more oxygen to reach them through an increased blood flow, hemoglobin, and red blood cell levels. Yoga also thins the blood which can decrease the risk of heart attack and stroke caused by blood clots. Twist yoga poses like Noose Pose, Half Lord of the Fishes Pose, and Revolved Triangle Pose not only help relieve lower back pain and aid digestion, they deplete low-oxygen venous blood from your internal organs and allow more oxygenated blood to flow back in when you release the twist. The popular inverted Downward Facing Dog and Dolphin poses encourage that same venous blood flow from the legs and pelvis back to the heart and then lungs where it gets fresh oxygenation. Many studies show yoga lowers the resting heart rate, increases endurance, and can improve the maximum uptake and utilization of oxygen during exercise.

Diabetes

Another study found that practicing yoga improved lipid profiles in healthy patients, as well as patients with known coronary artery disease. It also lowered excessive blood sugar levels in people with non-insulin dependent diabetes and reduced their need for medications.

Cancer

The growth of tumors and other cancer indicators are intensified by stress, making it important for people who are diagnosed with cancer to reduce and manage stress effectively. In a 2017 study, researchers from the University of Rochester found that cancer patients who practiced yoga showed at 37% reduction in ‘daytime dysfunction.’ In a different study, researchers found that cancer patients who practiced yoga in addition to exercise were nearly twice as likely to report improved mood (66% versus 34%). And they also reported less difficulty with general activities (59% versus 41%). In 2014, a clinical trial determined that women who practiced yoga during radiotherapy for breast cancer were able to control stress hormones and had a much better quality of life. Additionally, yoga had a positive influence on sleep patterns in individuals with lymphoma.

Arthritis/Inflammation/Back Pain

For people of all ages, building and maintaining muscle mass can protect you from arthritis, osteoporosis, and back pain. Yoga helps loosen the muscles and connective tissues around your bones and joints, helping to reduce pain. In one six-month study on back pain, people reported significantly less disability, pain, and depression than those who sought standard care. Another study, performed at Ohio State, showed that women who practiced yoga on a regular basis for at least two years had significantly lower levels of inflammation than women who only recently took up yoga. Numerous studies have shown that asana, meditation, or a combination of the two, reduced pain in people with arthritis, carpal tunnel syndrome, back pain and other chronic conditions.

Benefit #3: Yoga Can Increase Self-Confidence

One of the primary objectives of yoga is to obtain a tranquil mind and build a feeling of well-being and relaxation that leads to increased productivity, concentration, and an optimistic outlook on life. All of these objectives lead to an improved self-confidence. From a medical standpoint, yoga actually inhibits the posterior or sympathetic area of the hypothalamus in the brain which increases your ability to deal with stress. It also curbs the areas of your brain accountable for fear, hostility, and anger, and stimulates the rewarding pleasure centers in the medial forebrain and other areas leading to a state of happiness and pleasure. This inhibition results in lower anxiety, heart rate, respiratory rate, blood pressure, and cardiac output in people practicing yoga and meditation.

The breathing component of yoga as you concentrate on challenging poses or reflect on your personal wants, needs, and beliefs in life is perfect for developing your personal focus and creating a clear mind that can strengthen your self-confidence. Yoga has the power to help you concentrate on opening a deep connection with your inner self. It is therefore common to have an increased level of self-awareness, which can be a stimulant to discovering your untapped potential.

Even the poses, such as standing up straight, holding your head high, and looking forward have an immediate positive impact on self-confidence while it improves your posture.

Confidence is basically a synonym for inner peace and happiness. When you’re at peace, you’re happy — and when you’re truly happy, you can become unwavering in your new self-confidence.

Benefit #4: Yoga can help reduce insomnia

There can be a myriad of reasons you either have trouble falling asleep or staying asleep. Yoga can help. Yoga's ability to increase relaxation and induce a balanced mental state was studied to evaluate its effect on sleep quality and improving insomnia. According to studies, those who regularly practiced yoga fell asleep faster, slept longer, and felt more rested when they awoke.

Benefit #5: Yoga assists in weight loss & management

Oftentimes we are so busy thinking about our spouse, our children or parents, our friends, our work, our personal lives, and everything else that makes up our busy lives, we don’t take time to just be present. Yoga offers a place, time and activity to stop and improve our mindfulness - a time when we can concentrate on the present moment without judgement and be more in-tune with our bodies. This mindfulness has been shown by researchers to help with the physical and emotional awareness associated with eating including:

• Eating even when full
• Being aware of how food looks, tastes and smells
• Eating in response to environmental cues, such as the sight or smell of food
• Eating when sad or stressed (emotional eating)
• Eating when distracted by other things

Researchers concluded that those who engaged in yoga were more mindful eaters and that their mindfulness increased with both the years they had been practicing yoga, and the amount of time spent practicing per week.

In a different study, researchers found that people gained less weight during middle adulthood if they practiced yoga for a minimum of 30 minutes once a week for at least four years. People who were already overweight actually lost weight. Overall, those who practiced yoga had lower body mass indexes (BMIs) compared with those who did not practice yoga. Researchers attributed this to mindfulness. Mindful eating can lead to a more positive relationship with food and eating.

Get your yoga on at Sender One

Practicing yoga leads to a host of benefits - physically, mentally and spiritually - that can enhance your overall well-being and quality of life. That’s why your your favorite climbing gym offers a variety of yoga classes at both Los Angeles and Santa Ana! We offer daily yoga sessions for all levels - beginner to advanced. With expert class instructors and many different types of classes to choose from you’re sure to find one that is just right for you. For more information, stop by gym at LAX, or come to the new Santa Ana Yoga Studio! Namaste!

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Words and Video by David Lee

Instagram: @s0obs

Music: Hyukoh - Burning Youth

Midweek I come in to the gym more excited than usual because often a new set of boulder problems is put up. The fresh holds without grease from caked up chalk and shoe rubber are simply enchanting, and seduce all of us climbers to hop on, feel the texture, pull, and send.

A new set means that any unsent, or proudly sent project from the previous set is now gone. This may be disappointing, but at the same time it provides the opportunity to see how all the hard work on the previous set translates into the new set. A move one struggled on a previous set might feel much easier. On the other hand, one might run into a specific movement or hold that exposes a previously unidentified weakness. And the pure psyche of meeting an unknown boulder problem keeps one going, and when everything aligns perfectly, this sometimes leads to breaking into a higher grade.

Therefore routesetting is perhaps the most crucial part of a climbing gym, and behind this, of course, is the routesetters. All of our routesetters are incredibly strong, but even more passionate about setting boulder problems and sport routes that everyone can climb and train stoked and safe. Based on one’s style of climbing, each setter comes up with the holds, movements, and lines that are fun to set, exciting to climb, and aesthetically pleasing. More importantly, the setters take into serious consideration the fairness and safety of the problems. Through the process of forerunning, setters attempt to find intended or alternative moves that can be excessively difficult or easy for climbers of different characteristics, most notably, height. The setters further attempt to identify unintended moves that can pose hazard to climbers. One time Devan, one of our Sender One routesetters, set a beautiful line consisting of big blue volcano-looking holds from start to finish. Based on other setters’ concerns that climbers may get their feet jammed in the giant volcanoes and injure the ankle, Devan, after much trial and error, managed to preserve the essence of the problem while significantly reducing potential danger. While routesetting is an expression of each setter’s style, creativity, and pride in climbing, the setters fundamentally strive to create a climbing terrain that the entire climbing community can enjoy.

All this process – stripping the holds from the previous set, planning and setting a new problem, forerunning and making adjustments, assigning grades and cleaning up – certainly takes a full day’s work. This does not include the time the setters climb or train to get even stronger such that they can come up with more creative, fun, and useful moves for all levels of climbing. So when you see the setters next time, why don’t you give them a good pat on the back, and let them know what you like or don’t like about problems and routes? They seem to appreciate the feedback to continue to set even more exciting climbs. Oh, to reveal a secret behind their insane power and skills in climbing, the setters much frequent a great local pizza place during their lunch breaks.

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Words and Images by Brianne Schaer
Instagram: @brianneschaer

Taking the leap from indoor to outdoor climbing is no small feat.  The gym offers a controlled environment to hone your skills and keep your body in shape.  Brightly colored holds guide you to the top of each route and cushioned floor pads protect you when you fall.  The one thing the gym cannot offer is the sense of adventure and freedom that being outside provides.

There isn't a quick and easy way to explain the transition from indoor to outdoor climbing.  The best way to start is to head to your local crag and climb!  It is important to always keep in mind that climbing, whether indoors or outdoors, is an extremely dangerous activity.  The following tips will hopefully help you as you start climbing outdoors.  Climbing, as with most things in life, is a constant learning process, and we are all learning new techniques and skills every day.

Note: I am not a professional guide for outdoor climbing.  These are tips to help transition climbers from inside a gym to the outdoors.  Please climb responsibly.

Hire a Guide

Hiring a guide is the best way to ensure that you are safe when you first start venturing outdoors.  Nothing can replace the knowledge and experience of a hired guide.  A good instructor can show you the best places to learn to climb, any specific rules or conditions of the crag, and most importantly, how to stay safe.  There are a number of well-qualified guides in Southern California.  Spend time researching a guide that will meet your needs and ensure you have a good experience on the rock.

Find Experienced Climbers

Can't afford a professional guide?  Mentorship is another great way to start climbing outside, but tread lightly when choosing a mentor.  You want to make sure they know what they are doing and are willing to help you on your journey.  Since they are dedicating their time to helping you, you should try to return the favor in other ways.  Simply offering to use your gear, or buy gas or food can go a long way.

Take Classes

Professional instruction is a great way to learn necessary climbing skills.  Sender One offers a number of great classes (at both SNA and LAX) that will teach you the basics for lead climbing and belaying, as well as various techniques useful in the outdoors, such as crack climbing.  The more you practice lead climbing and belaying in the gym, the more confident you will be to transition those skills to the outdoor world.  Other important skills to learn include rappelling, knot tying, and building anchors.

Be Aware of Dangers

There are a lot of dangers outside with the potential to kill you.  It is important to keep that in mind and always be aware of your surroundings and potential dangers.  This includes rockslides, loose holds, people above you dropping gear, and you dropping your gear on others.  Also be on the lookout for ledges or bulges that you may potentially fall on if you should take a lead fall.

Always Perform Safety Checks

Make sure that your rope and gear are in good condition before climbing, every time you climb.  Always check your partner, whether you're the climber or the belayer.

Check the Weather

The weather can make or break your outdoor climbing experience.  Of course, climbing during the rain is not advisable.  It's also not a good idea to climb a day or two after rain, and in some crags, it's not allowed because the rock is more likely to break off when it is damp or moist.  It's also important to check the wind conditions, because it is much harder to clip quickdraws, or grab small holds in the wind.

Purchase Gear

Since you climb in the gym, you probably already have your own shoes, harness, and chalk bag. If you don't, it is time to buy them. Once you start climbing outside you'll realize there is never really an end to your list of gear you need to buy. Here is a short list of the necessities for outdoor climbing: shoes, harness, chalk bag, belay device, rappel device, rope, quickdraws, locking carabiners, personal anchor, and helmet.

Do Your Research

Before heading out to the crag, make sure you have a good idea of where the crag is, how to get there, how long the approach is, what gear you need, and how harsh the grading system is.  Always keep in mind that grades outside are harder than inside, so that outdoor 5.7 may feel more like a 5.10 in the gym.

In addition to researching the crag, you can also read up on the basics of climbing in what is often referred to as the Climbing Bible.  Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills provides information on almost everything climbing-related, from tying knots and building anchors to belaying and rappelling.

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