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Climbing After Rain | A Guide to Wet Rock

Climbing After Rain | A Guide to Wet Rock

It has been a pretty wet winter here in Southern California!  While we are headng into Spring, we are sure there are still some rainy days ahead!  With all this wet weather, we thought it would be a good time to revisit the common question: when is it okay to climb in/after the rain? 

The answer to this question really comes down to what type of rock you are hoping to climb, and is super important when it comes to taking care of our local crags, and leaving a minimal impact when we adventure outdoors.  Check it out! 

 

Sedimentary Rocks

Photo of sandstone at Calico Hills in Red Rock, Nevada (from https://www.redrockcanyonlv.org/calico-hills/)

Sandstone

Sandstone is the beautiful, usually reddish in tone, rock found in places like Red Rock, Nevada and Indian Creek, Utah.  Sandstone is a sedimentary rock that absorbs moisture, therefore when it rains (or snows!), a lot of water ends up soaking into the rock.  As the rock’s surface gets wet, the cementing agents within the rock are weakened, therefore the rock itself loses a significant amount of strength.  This results in the rock breaking apart while wet, especially when put under the pressure of a hand or foot!  Unfortunately several routes at Red Rock have lost holds due to people climbing them before the rock was dry.  

A good way to tell if the rock is ready climb is to see if the ground is dry on the way to, and at the base of, the climb.  If the ground is still moist (not sandy and dry), then it is good to assume the rock is still wet, even if it seems dry on the surface!  Give it at least a good 24-36 hours (sometimes longer!) after rain before attempting to climb sandstone that has been wet!  If you’re ever unsure, don’t hesitate to ask local climbers or local climbing coalitions for their suggestions about climbing regarding recent weather.

Photo of conglomerate rock at Maple Canyon in Utah (from Mountain Project)

Conglomerate Rock

Conglomerate rock is a form of sedimentary rock that contains pebble- and cobble-sized clasts embedded within sediment.  This kind of rock is found in Maple Canyon, UT, and locally in Texas Canyon near Santa Clarita, CA.  As it is a sedimentary rock, it absorbs moisture much like sandstone, and should be avoided when wet.  Again, note your surroundings and take stock of the rock and ground conditions.  If the ground is wet, take a rest day! The rock will be there and ready for you to climb once it is dry! 

 

Igneous and Metamorphic Rock

Photo of granite at Joshua Tree National Park in CA(from Mountain Project)

These types of rock include granite, quartz, and volcanic rock.  These rocks are not very absorbent to moisture and are considered okay to climb when wet (though that rubber on your shoe may not stick as well!).  This means climbing wet rock in Joshua Tree National Park, or Holcomb Valley, will not impact the rock any differently than when climbing it while dry.  You may feel more slippery than usual, however, therefore caution should be used to minimize risk of injury. 

 

What do I do if it rains?

Sender One SNA (Santa Ana, CA)

Sender One LAX (Los Angeles, CA)

If your climbing plans have been soured by the rain, then take the opportunity to go for a drive, take a hike, explore someplace new, or come climb at Sender One Climbing, Yoga, and Fitness!  With locations in Santa Ana, and Los Angeles, our door is always open to provide your climbing fix, rain or shine! 

Five Bouldering Games to Spice Up your Next Session

Five Bouldering Games to Spice Up your Next Session

Words by Brianne Schaer (Instagram: @brianneschaer)
Images by Crystal Tan (Instagram: @madambackwords)

Bouldering games are a creative way to let loose and have some fun with your friends at the gym.  Games can create a fun and casually competitive environment where you can push yourself beyond just trying to climb at the next v-level.

Sender One has some of the best setters around, and while the bouldering area is full of engaging problems, sometimes you want to shake it up and play by your own rules, so grab some friends and read over this list of our favorite bouldering games to spice up your next session! 

 

Add-On

Number of people: 2+

Rules: This game begins when the first climber selects two start holds and makes a single move.  The next climber must repeat the same move, and add another.  This process continues with each climber adding an extra move to the climb.  If you fall, you’re out!  The game ends once everyone has fallen, when someone tops out, or when you run out of wall space. 

Modifications:

  • You can allow climbers to use any foot holds or you can specify which foot holds are on/off. 
  • Extend the length of each game by doing the moves in reverse order/down-climbing.

 

Eliminator

Number of people: 1+

Rules: Pick a route that everyone in your group can easily climb.  The first player climbs the route, skipping one hold.  The skipped hold is now off limits for both hands and feet. The next climber must climb the route, skipping that hold, as well as skipping an additional hold of their choice.  The game continues until there is only one player left standing!

 

Twister

Number of people: 3-5

Rules: Climbers stand in front of a wall section that has four different colored holds.  Just like in the party game of the same name, one person will call our the move (e.g. right hand blue) and the climbers will have to make that move.  You can do this by simply by having one person call out the moves, or if you want to get more technical, you can download a twister spinner app to your phone.  If you fall, you’re out!  Play continues until there is only one player left on the wall.

 

Pointer

Number of people: 2+

Rules: Find a portion of the wall with lots of varied holds.  One person (or group of people) stands on the ground and points out the next hold the climber must use.  Use a pointer or if you don’t have one, then simply point with your finger and call out the hold name.  See who can stay on the wall the longest as you and your friends call our the moves. 

 

Simon Says

Number of people: 3+

Rules: This classic schoolyard game can also be fun on the climbing wall!  One person stays on the ground while the rest of your group finds a place on the wall.  The person on the ground will call out moves (e.g. Simon Says, right hand on blue).  You are out if you fall, are unable to make a move, or make a move without the ‘Simon Says’ command. 

Bonus Games!

If you have less time, less wall space, or just a shorter attention span, these easy mini-games can still make your session different and fun! 

 

Dyno:

Have some fun practicing dynos.  Find a spot where you can dyno from one hold to the next.  Then, try to dyno to a higher hold!  See who can make it the furthest from the original holds. Add to the challenge by seeing who in your group can complete the most dynos in the gym.  (Hint: The setters sometimes set a route that has fun dynos in it — look for ‘DYNO’ on the route tag!) 

Follow the Leader:

Pick one person to lead your group on a traverse.  Each person must hold the same hols as you move across the wall.  Take turns being the leader as you make up new moves each round.  (Just be mindful of your surroundings and that you aren’t climbing underneath anyone or cutting off anyone from starting their project!) 

Race:

Choose two problems that are next to each other and similar in difficulty.  See who can make it up their problem the fastest, then switch problems and race again.  You can also try to beat the clock when you’re climbing alone – pick a problem that you can comfortably onsight, and climb it quickly!  Time yourself to see how fast you can send it, and if you can beat your personal best! 

Campusing:

Pick a problem below your usual grade and climb it without using your feet.  Play with a group of friends to see who can make it the furthest, or send the problem first.  If a full campus isn’t in your wheelhouse, then you can also play by using only one foot, or one hand!  Get creative! 

These bouldering games can spice up your next gym session by adding variety and excitement.  While some of the games are just for fun, others can work on specific training elements, like stamina, onsight ability, or power!  Of course, while spicing up your bouldering routine, please be aware of your surroundings and respectful of other climbers trying to send their projects around you! 

If you have any bouldering games that you like to play, share them on our facebook community pages (SNA) (LAX)!

 

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Sender One Gift Guide | The Zen Seeker

Sender One Gift Guide | The Zen Seeker

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The Zen Seeker is easily one of the most impressive people you know.  From their general flexibility and overall control of their body, to their peaceful sense of self and general self-awareness, the yogi is admired by many. I