Tina Frank, Author at Sender One Climbing - Page 2 of 3
Announcement: Sender One Huntington Beach

Announcement: Sender One Huntington Beach

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Updated 1/21/21

Sender One Climbing to open its third bouldering-only facility in Huntington Beach, CA. Promised Westwood location in Los Angeles moves forward.

Announcing: Sender One Huntington Beach!

Sender One is excited to announce that we are expanding our climbing family! We're bringing new heights to Bella Terra in Huntington Beach, CA! In addition to our current two full-service locations in Orange County and Los Angeles, Sender One Huntington Beach will be the third bouldering-only facility after Playa Vista (2021) and Westwood (2022).

Bouldering is a form of climbing where you don’t need a rope or harness to scale the walls. All you need are some climbing shoes, chalk (optional), and the desire to rock climb! Indoor bouldering typically involves climbing up and down walls that are between 12-16 feet tall. Just like our other Sender One facility, this climbing space will cater to brand new and experienced climbers. 

This location is projected to open in late 2023, or early 2024. 

 

About the Space and Location

Sender One Huntington Beach will be a 9000 sf bouldering and fitness facility. We are especially thrilled to be expanding our footprint in this area and to further serve the Orange County community. We may not have all the fine details just yet, but we’ll be sure to keep you updated when we find out more!

Bella Terra in Huntington Beach is an outdoor, open-air shopping, dining, and entertainment experience located right off the 405 freeway and just 10 minutes from the beach. Before or after your climbing session, you can conveniently grab a bite to eat or sip on some coffee, get your groceries at Whole Foods or Costco, or treat yourself to some shopping. Follow them on Instagram @bellaterrahb to start exploring the area!

We’re looking forward to discovering and connecting with the Huntington Beach community as the Sender One family continues to grow!

By the way, we are working hard on finding our next full-service location! Stay tuned.

 

Sender One Westwood Update

Still on track to open late 2022, Sender One Westwood has made some progress since the last update in 2021 by finalizing the design and engineering of the space. This 10,000 sf bouldering-only facility will also include an upstairs mezzanine overlooking the climbing where the training boards, fitness, and yoga will reside. We are currently in the permitting process and hope to begin construction as early as Spring 2022.

Although we were delayed due to the pandemic, we are delighted to be opening up as other new businesses and restaurants fill the Westwood Village area and students return to school. Check out this article about the lively return of Westwood Village.

For more about Sender One Westwood and the location, revisit the original announcement post!

 

Bouldering League: Everything You Need to Know

Bouldering League: Everything You Need to Know

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Bouldering League season is here and we have everything you need to get started! If it's your first time participating you should know that bouldering league is not just any community event - it's where teams climb together to score based on progress, not just prowess.

Whether you are brand new to climbing or have years of experience, you have an equal chance to win the ultimate title of Bouldering League Champion! The best part is, participants receive perks including:

  • a Bouldering League shirt or tank
  • entry in a raffle on finals night for a chance to win sweet swag
  • to participate in 4 weeks of Bouldering League!
  • to compete to win the title of Bouldering League champion and a coveted Bouldering League trophy!

To sign-up for Bouldering League or review more FAQs, check out our Bouldering League page.

If you are brand new to climbing, you can also check out our "Climbing 101: The Essentials" blog that will introduce bouldering grades, how to complete a route, climbing techniques, and more!

Setting a Handicap

In Bouldering League you compete against yourself to earn points. This is done by completing more difficult routes than you may normally as you progress over the 4-week Bouldering League period.

This is tracked by setting a handicap, which is the highest grade you can climb consistently. The more routes you complete at or above your handicap grade, the more points you earn for your team!

When you sign-up for bouldering league you will need to set your handicap. To estimate what you should set for your handicap, you can use the average* grade of the top 5 grades climbed during your last session or two.

If a handicap is set too low, Sender One may manually adjust it during Bouldering League to reflect a climber's true level. Here are some examples of setting a handicap:

*You can calculate the average by adding up the 5 grades, then dividing by 5.

Beginner Benny

Benny is newer to bouldering and climbs anywhere from a v0 to a v3, depending if he has time to project the route. Here are the top 5 grades he completed in his last session:

v1, v1, v1, v2, v2v1, v1, v2, v2, v3

At first glance, we can see Benny can consistently climb v2s. His average grade is between a 1 and a 2, and he should choose one of those grades for his handicap. Let's assume Benny is able to flash v1s, and most of his v2s.

In this case, Benny should select 2 as his handicap.

Experienced Elizabeth

Elizabeth has been bouldering for over 3 years, and climbs anywhere from a v0 to a v7 depending if she has time to project the route. Here are the top 5 grades she completed in her last session:

v3, v4, v4, v5, v6v3, v4, v4, v5, v7

At first glance, we can see Elizabeth can consistently climb v4s and some v5s. Her average grade is betwee a 4 and a 5, and she should choose one of those grades for her handicap.

If Elizabeth completed the v5s after projecting during multiple sessions, she should probably set her handicap at 4. If Elizabeth completed the v5s after just a few attempts, she should probably set her handicap at a 5.

Scoring

Climbing for a Score

You will submit your scores once a week on the first day that you attempt the Bouldering League routes. Since you only get to earn points on the first day you climb the routes, be sure to leave it all on the wall that day!

You are welcome to come back and climb the Bouldering League routes again, they just won't count towards your score.

Earn points based on Handicap

While you can earn some points for completing routes below your handicap, most of your points are earned by completing routes at or above your handicap grade. Try to focus your energy on some of the more difficult routes since that's where you will score big time!

Flashing

Flashing means that you completed a route on your first attempt. Flashing a route will help you earn extra points!

Weighting

Bouldering League is all about rewarding progress. To reward progress, scores are weighted each week. This means that your score in Week 4 will count more towards your overall score than your score in Week 1. Here's an example of how weighting works (numbers may not be exact to what is used in scoring):

Week 1: score x 1

Week 2: score x 1.5

Week 3: score x 2

Week 4: score x 2.5

Individual Scores

Each week you will complete as many routes as you can in one session, and submit all of them for a score. However, only the top 5 scores earned will be used to calculate your total score of that week. Since you won't know which route will earn more points, be sure to submit them all!

If you aren't able to complete 5 routes that's okay. You may miss out on a few points but you can make up the points next week!

Team Scores

In your team of 4, only the 3 top scores each week are used for your total score. This is helpful if a teammate is unable to participate that week, or if someone is just having  a high-gravity week!

What to expect

When to Climb

You can climb for your score any day of the week, from setting day (varies by location) until Sunday @ closing.  Just remember to submit your scores on the first day you climb.

While it's not required, we encourage everyone to climb as a team to meet new friends and cheer each other on!

Bouldering League Tags

Bouldering League tags look different than what you normally see in the gym. They have a design of a trophy, and are numbered usually from 1-22 (may vary by location). When you come in to climb for Bouldering League, you can climb any (or all) of these routes to try and earn points.

Since these tags only have the route number, the grade of each route in Bouldering League is a mystery - so try as many routes as you can and spend extra time on routes that seem within your range!

Comradery 

One of the best things you can expect from Bouldering League is the comradery between every climber. While it's a competition, the climbing community never ceases to support and encourage one another. If you find yourself struggling near the top of a climb and suddenly hear some clapping and yelling, you can bet it's everyone below cheering you on to make that final move!

Scorecards

Paper scorecards will be available at the front desk to pick up on your way in. When you complete a Bouldering League route (indicated by the special tag), you will write down the number of the route you completed, if you flashed it, and get a witness to sign-off. Here's an example:

Route Number CompletedFlashed?Witness
#8YesWitness Signature

Submitting Your Score

On your paper scorecard you'll find a QR code. Each week you'll scan this QR code to submit your scores when you're done climbing!

Tracking Your Score

At the end of each week scores will be posted via Facebook on our Sender One Bouldering League page. Scores will also be shared via Instagram on the account where your Bouldering League is being hosted. Follow your Sender One location to get updates: @senderone_playavista, @senderone_lax, @senderone_sna.

Climbing 101: The Essentials

Climbing 101: The Essentials

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Whether you are new to the climbing community or thinking about trying it out, welcome! We are here to help get you started with some information and resources you might need as you start your climbing journey:

If you have more questions beyond what is included in this article, our staff is always available to help! You can also connect with the Community for more support on our community Facebook pages: SNA Community, LAX Community, Playa Vista Community.

Start Your First Climb

Around the gym you'll notice groups of holds going up the wall in the same color. Each set of same color holds makes up a route, which you'll climb from bottom to top. And this may seem straightforward, but there is actually a way to complete a route properly!

To start your route, you'll want to have both of your hands on the hold that is attached to the route tag. However, sometimes the route has a two handed start - meaning your hands can start on two different holds.

For two handed starts at Sender One, the rule is that you can use any holds attached to the route tag, OR below it. You know you have a two handed start when: you try to put both on one hold and it feels IMPOSSIBLE; you see another good hand hold below the route tag, or if you see chalk on another hold below the starting one - that means other climbers have been using it!

To finish your route, get both hands secured on the very top hold in the color you started on. When you can, use the down-climb (white or grey) holds to get lower to the floor before dropping down, your knees who will thank you later!

Did you know? 

Every Boulder grade starts with a "V" which is short for "Vermin", the nickname of John Sherman who was a pioneer of Bouldering, and the creator of the V-scale.

Every Rope Climbing grade starts with a "5." which comes from the Yosemite Decimal System. The "5." indicates the 'Class' of a hike, where 1 would be flat and 5 would require climbing & ropes in order to complete it. The additional numbers/letters such as "5.10a" indicates the difficulty of the climb itself. 

What to Climb

Understanding Climbing Grades

 Each boulder route in the gym will have a tag with a 'v' followed by a number. The number on this tag indicates the difficulty of the climb, with the lowest difficulty starting at v0. As a beginner, you'll want to find routes with a tag that show 'v0', 'v1', or 'v2'. Each gym has a learning corner where you will find multiple routes with these grades next to each other. This is the perfect place to start especially if it's your first time climbing. If you aren't sure where this learning corner is, just ask a staff member! Once you've climbed all these routes, you'll find even more lower difficulty grades scattered throughout the gym. 

Each top rope route will also have a tag with a number, and sometimes a letter. The lowest difficulty you'll find at the gym is a 5, and the routes will get more difficult as the numbers increase. Once you reach 10, you'll notice the tags start to include letters, such as '10a'. The letters range from 'a' to 'd', and indicate an increase in difficulty where a '10a' is less difficult than a '10d'. As a beginner, you'll likely start with grades 5-9, and some 10s if you're a natural.

Climbing Everything

During your first year of climbing it's helpful to focus on getting in  mileage - meaning go climb everything you can! This will help you build up strength, increase endurance, and introduce you to different styles of climbing. 

To get more mileage, warm-up by climbing up AND down routes. If heights don't suit you quite yet, that's okay too! You can get mileage in by traversingTraversing is essentially sideways climbing. Simply pick a starting point on the wall and climb to the left or right, working your way across the wall as far as you can go. 

Introduction to Climbing Techniques

As you start to climb more difficult routes, it will require a bit more technique to continue climbing efficiently. Here are some techniques you'll start to use:

Flagging: Using your legs to provide balance on the wall. When reaching for a hold in one direction, move your leg on the opposite side of your body out in the other direction. For example, if you reach towards the right with your right hand, move your left leg out towards the left to maintain balance.

Straight Arms: Keep your arms straight whenever possible to conserve energy, and focus on using your legs for driving momentum rather than relying on your arms.

Smearing: Using the the ball of your foot to gain friction on the wall.  Sometimes there may not be a hold available when you need it, but the wall is always there for you!

Foot matching: Switching which foot is placed on a particular hold. You can do this efficiently by hovering one toe directly above the foot on the hold, and quickly replacing the hovering toe with the other. 

Heel Hooks: Placing the back of your heel on a hold for stability, or to drive momentum through by pulling on a hold with your heel to reach the next hand hold. 

Stemming: Pushing with your hands and/or feet against opposing walls or holds.

Closed Hips: Turning your hips in close to the wall. This helps improve your reach, improve stability, and helps conserve energy. 

These climbing techniques and more are taught in our Intro to Bouldering class (FREE for members & punch-pass holders!) and Foundations Series. Class availability may vary by location, sign-up below!

Climb Free of Intimidations

One of the best parts of climbing is becoming a part the community. While climbing can be intimidating at first, don't forget that each climber had to start their own journey at the beginning too. If you ever feel stuck on a climb, or need a little encouragement, don't be afraid to ask a fellow climber for help. Part of climbing is really just creative problem solving, and us climbers love to work together to find the solution, or as we call it the 'beta'.

Another intimidating factor may be approaching a route when there are a few other advanced climbers watching. But toss those fears aside because the climbers sitting there need to take breaks between attempts, and work on finding a beta (creative solution) to complete their route. By attempting a route near them, you are really just ensuring they get a much needed break, and they will most likely cheer you on!

Getting support from your community can help accelerate your progress, and of course you may make some friends along the way.

Shopping for Your Own Climbing Shoes

Investing in your own climbing shoes is worth it! Rental shoes will only get you so far as they have their limits as you progress into more difficult routes. Plus, no one else's feet have been in them which is the real benefit. 

How Your Climbing Shoes Should Fit

Climbing shoes will fit more snug than a regular pair of shoes. It's actually perfect if your climbing shoe is a little bit tight as this will help give you more control when climbing! However, you don't want them to be uncomfortable. If your toes are too crunched where there's a clear bump when you look at them, try a size up. Also keep in mind that you don't typically wear socks while climbing, so be sure to test your shoe size without socks on.

How to Shop for Climbing Shoes

For your first pair of climbing shoes, you'll want to look for shoes designed for beginner climbers. Look for climbing shoes with only a slight arch, and more rounded toes. These are designed for more comfort since you'll be wearing your shoes throughout your session, rather than competition style shoes that climbers will take off right after they attempt their route.

A good example beginner shoe is the 5.10 Kirigami Climbing Shoe shown on the left.

Where to Shop For Climbing Shoes

5.10 climbing shoes, including the Kirigami shoe above, can be found in the retail section of your Sender One home gym (may vary by gym). If it's not available your size we can always order it for you!

You can also find gently used shoes from multiple brands at discounted prices through REI.

Project With Us in 2022

Project With Us in 2022

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Projecting is pouring your time and energy into the process of climbing something that is at or above your physical limit. It might take you days, weeks, months, or even years to complete. This year, lead the pitch by taking the project off the wall and create one for healthy climbing habits! 

Our staff members are projecting too, check out their 2022 projects below ↓

Step 1: Set Your Goal

When setting a goal, try choosing something you're already working towards. It can be easier to stick to a goal that fits into your existing routine rather than something totally new. Focus on selecting a single long term goal, it can be as small or large as you want! 

Example Goals

Fitness Finesse: Put your focus on your physical wellness including injury prevention and recovery.

Mental Might: Put your focus on overcoming mental blockers.

Construct a Community: Put your focus on building connections with others in the climbing community. 

Step 2: Create Your Project

The next step is to create a project by setting 2 or more small objectives that will contribute to you accomplishing your goal. It's the same as working on multiple problems on a climbing project, piece by piece you'll be able to send it!

These objectives should be specific and attainable so you can easily cross them off your list when they're complete! Keep your objectives small as this will make it easier to build them into your current routine.

Example Objectives

Fitness Finesse

  • Take yoga or fitness classes 
  • Introduce a 1-hr training-focused session 
  • Research and introduce 5 new stretches 
  • Dedicate 10 minutes to warm-ups 
  • Downclimb every route topped

Mental Might

  • Dedicate 1 day of fun-only climbs
  • Create 1 motivating playlist
  • Read 1 mental-training book, such as "Vertical Mind: Psychological Approaches for Optimal Rock Climbing" by Don McGrath and Jeff Elison
  • Take 3 practice falls at the start of each rope session
  • Start and end your session with 1 climb you can flash

Construct a Community

  • Attend 1 Community Event such as Monday Night Meetup, Ladies Climbing Coalition, or Send With Pride
  • Ask to Project with another climber during 3 different sessions
  • Sign-Up for a bouldering buddy on the community board
  • Join your Community Facebook Group
  • Introduce yourself to 2 staff members you haven't met

Step 3: Schedule Your Project

Now that you have your objectives, we will determine how often we will do them, and for how long. 

If you intend to build habits from your project, you may consider starting small. Habits can take a long time to create, but they form faster when they are done more often, so starting with something reasonable that is easier to accomplish can make your project more sustainable. 

Once you create your schedule, it may be helpful to write it down so you can keep track of your progress, and act as reminders to finish your objectives. It's also a nice reward to check something off your list!

Example Schedule

Fitness Finesse

  • Take 1  yoga or fitness classes per week for a month
  • Have a 1-hr training-focused session per week for a month
  • Research and introduce 5 new stretches before and after every session for 2 weeks
  • Dedicate 10 minutes to warm-ups every session for 2 weeks
  • Downclimb every route topped for 1 week

Mental Might

  • Dedicate 1 session per week for fun-only climbs
  • Create 1 motivating playlist by the end of January
  • Read 1 mental-training book by the end of January, such as "Vertical Mind: Psychological Approaches for Optimal Rock Climbing" by Don McGrath and Jeff Elison
  • Take 3 practice falls at the start of each rope session for 2 weeks
  • Start and end your session with a climb you can flash for 1 month

Construct a Community

  • Attend 1 Community Event such as Monday Night Meetup, Ladies Climbing Coalition, or Send With Pride per month, for 3 months
  • Ask to Project with another climber during 3 different sessions in the next month.
  • Sign-Up for a bouldering buddy on the community board by the end of the month. 
  • Join your community Facebook Group by the end of the week.
  • Introduce yourself to 2 staff members you haven't met by February. 

Step 4: Reward Yourself

The final and most important step is to reward yourself during your project! Celebrate every milestone, every check mark made on your objectives list, every successful session! Projecting isn't easy, and you deserve some rewards for all the hard work you're putting in. 

Example Rewards

  • Grab coffee or tea on the way home from the gym
  • Treat yourself to a bath bomb and soak your sore muscles
  • Buy yourself a new piece of merch to climb in
  • Get a fun dessert on your next grocery trip
  • Use your guest pass to spend quality time with a friend or family member
  • Take an extra rest day 
  • Tag Sender One on Instagram so we can cheer on your progress
  • Give yourself a hand massage - those things are probably exhausted!
  • Sleep-in an extra hour during your weekend

Staff 2022 Projects

Rock the Holidays

Rock the Holidays

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This Holiday Season we want to provide you with the opportunity to give more than a gift, we want to help you create memories! Whether you are holiday shopping for kids, family, friends, or a significant other, -  whether it’s for the advanced climbers in your life or those just starting out - there’s something for everyone. 

Shop gear for new or advanced climbers to earn FREE Gift Cards, gift a climbing experience to kids or adults with our holiday bundles, or purchase a year of fun for the whole family in Sender City!

Once you've explored the gift options below, you can find detailed information about each holiday deal here

If you need a little help getting into the holiday spirit before you shop, we got just the thing for you - read below ↓

 

Gear-Up

Create your own holiday gift set full of rockin' gear and earn FREE gift cards as you spend! Gift Cards can be used on future purchases for climbing classes or retail!

GIFT SET IDEAS ↓

Climb-On

Join in on the fun with our pre-packaged holiday bundles that include a climbing session or class, + Sender One swag!

We have bundles for adults and kids:

HOLIDAY BUNDLES ↓

Family Fun

Stay active year-round in our interactive climbing center, full of fun climbs for the whole family!

With our Sender City Annual Pass deal, the fun doesn’t have to stop.

SHOP FOR FAMILY ↓

Spend $50, Get a $5 Gift Card Spend $75, Get a $10 Gift Card Spend $100, Get a $25 Gift Card Spend $200+, Get a $50 Gift Card Special applies before taxes and to the total amount after any discounts. Valid only on retail items and gift cards. Gift cards cannot be used for same-day purchases.

Gift Set Ideas to Help You Earn FREE Gift Cards!

*Promotion applies before taxes and to the total amount after any discounts.
Valid only on retail items and gift cards. Purchases for gift cards in the amounts above must be made in-person. Gift cards cannot be used for same-day purchases.*

Find Your Climber: 

New Kid on the Rock

For the climber who is newer to the Climbing Community

  • Organic Chalk Bag - $30+
  • Chalk Ball - $7
  • Harness - $50+
  • Sender One T-Shirt - $20+
Friction & Fitness

For the climber who is both on the wall & in the gym

  • Water Bottle - $40
  • Sender One T-Shirt - $20+
  • Sender One Branded Goodr Sunglasses - $25
Crag Crazy

For the climber who is ready to face any crux

  • Edelrid Carabiner - $36
  • Edelrid Rope - $185+
  • Chalk Brush - $10+
  • Sender One Hoodie - $35+
Bouldering Baddie

For the climber who isn't about the heights

  • Chalk Brush - $10+
  • DryPointe Shoe Inserts - $12
  • SendBlend Liquid Chalk - $8+
  • CRUXCARE Hand Salve - $20
Trad CAREfully

For the climber whose hands & neck need some love. 

  • CRUXCARE Hand Salve - $20
  • Belay Gloves - $18
  • Belay Glasses - $60

Kids Climbing Bundle 

Surprise kids of any age with a certificate to a Sender City Session or Kids Climb, included with Sender One swag so they can climb in style. This kids holiday climbing bundle includes:

  • Sender City General Admission or Kids Climb (may vary by location)
  • Sender One Youth Hoodie
  • Sender One Youth T-Shirt

+ FREE Gift Box!

Adult Climbing Bundle

Share your passion for climbing with friends, family, your significant other, or start your own journey with an Intro to Climbing or Bouldering class, included with rentals and Sender One swag to look rockin’ on the wall. This adult holiday climbing bundle includes:

  • Intro to Boulder or Intro to Climbing Class (may vary by location)
  • Free Rentals with Class
  • Sender One Hoodie
  • Sender One T-Shirt

+ FREE Gift Box!

*T-Shirt will vary by gym location, and colors may vary. Gift Bundles can only be purchased in-person. The gift card special DOES apply to these bundles. Gift certificates are valid at any location, but offerings may not be available at certain locations.

Family Fun In Sender City

Give the gift of endless fun for the family this holiday with an annual Sender City pass for $315 (normally $359) and enjoy 360 days of climbing!

*Passes are available online or in person. Gift card special DOES NOT apply.

'Twas the Night Before Climbing

A Holiday tale of a routesetter's visit 

" 'Twas the night before Climbing, and all thru’ the crag,

Not a climber stirring, each asleep in their bag.

The stockings were full of gift cards and gear,

Fun sets and good holds are soon to be near.

Your family and friends all snug in bed,

With visions of beta in their heads.

You in your Petzl Gear and black diamond cap,

Had just settled down for a long climber’s nap.

When all of a sudden there arose such a clatter,

Climbers dyno’d from bed to see what was the matter.

Away from the tent they flew with a flash,

Like how they finish each climb with a smash.

The moon shining bright on the crag covered in snow,

Giving a luster of sight to all the objects below.

 

When what to those wondering eyes should arise,

But a bucket of holds each different in size.

Held by a climber so full of delight,

They knew right then, a routesetter’s in sight.

With talents far and wide his fellow ‘setters came,

 He belayed and he shouted instructions to set holds by name.

“Set Pinches, Set Mantels, Set Slopers and Crimps,

Set Pockets, Set Edges, Set Volumes and Foot Chips! 

To the top of the boulder, to the top of the wall,

Now set away, set away, set away all!”

He set all his routes, and to his team gave a nod,

And away they all went in their routesetters squad.

But I heard him exclaim as he went out of sight,

"Happy Climbing to all and to all...goodnight”"

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